Camas Wall
A short wall with fun overhanging problems across a wide grade range of 5.8 to 5.12c, concentrated through the 10s and 11s. Good for all levels of climbers. Upper Camas climbs can be accessed by climbing (or rappelling) to Matty’s Ledge, the mid-point on this wall, from which the Upper Camas climbs begin.
To rig the Lower Camas for top roping, access the anchors by lead climbing up to them from the ground floor, or by rappelling.
Rap options include:
(a) MAIN WALL ANCHORS of 'Big Top Connector'. To find these anchors, take the Main Wall top access trail (LEFT of Main Walland Practice Area), then walk to the furthest CLIMBERS RIGHT anchors on the Main Wall top ledge, or (b) VERY TOP ANCHORS – rappelling from top anchors of either 'Climbing in Someone Else's Shoes' or 'Just the Tips'.
To find them, take the RIGHT access trail past Black Beauty Bulge Wall to the top, and find the HIGHEST TWO SETS of anchors at the top, furthest CLIMBERS LEFT on the Upper Camas Wall.
Quick Facts
Eight Litre Buckets
Start up the giant detached flake resting at the base of the wall, behind a small Maple Tree up as mall bulge of dirt and rock. It is the furthest left climb on the wall. Follow the glacier smoothed bowls to low angle finish on right side of sharp, obvious roof. Anchors are on the Main Wall Ledge. Top rope access is from top of Main Wall, and a safety bolt can be found immediately above the anchor on back wall. FA S Morphy, M Steffen '15.
Big Top Connector
Start beside the Oak Tree, at the base of the dirt/rock ramp. Easy start to a high first bolt, move left onto a right-leaning layback flake, then gain the discontinuous crack above. Mostly a low angle, blocky finish. Anchors are right of a small roof. Walk off via the Main Wall ledge. This line connects various groups of anchors, and takes you from Camas to the top of the Main Wall – it crosses over. FA Marko, S Morphy, '15.
Sketch Artist
Blocky moves below lead to thinner face moves higher up, and a high crux ending on Matty’s Ledge (rappel or lead-in access only). Originally a top rope by Marko and Matty D, retro-bolted for sport climbing in 2015.This climb is also used to access the Main Wall ledge by continuing to lead above the anchors at Matty's. Once you reach the anchors for "Artist", traverse left 1.5 meters (to bolts of "Big Top Connector") and continue your lead up, for a total of 25 meters. FA Marko, Matty Davyduik, '07.
Lines in the Sand
Great fun! Easier moves for first couple bolts, then muscle out right on jugs on to the overhang, gain the thin face crux above. Very thin feet and hands, this is a puzzle for balance and technique, and just pure commitment. Lower angle crack and slab to finish on Matty's Ledge (lead or rap access only). Originally a top rope line by Marko and Matty D, retro-bolted 2015. FA M Steffen, S Morphy, '15.
Feel the Fingers
Starting on top of a dangerous looking blade-flake on ground level at the top of the stone steps, move through and out of the overhang to short, powerful face moves on very thin holds through the crux. Lower angle (and grade) crack/ slab for the finish on Matty's Ledge (lead or rap access only). FA S Morphy, M Larcrox '19.
Who's Line is it Anyway
This line (the original) zig-zags more than the 'direct' version. It starts under a short, right facing corner, left along the hands-free ledge, then low angle slab, finishing on thin crimps to Matty's ledge (lead or rap access only). Links to "Climbing ... shoes" and "Just the Tips" on the Upper Camas Wall. One of the original top rope lines built by Marko and Matty D in early 2000s, retro-bolted in 2015 by Marko and SMorphy, '15.
Who's Line is it Anyway DIRECT
"Direct" (11a) is a 14 meter line put in later as a 'straight up' variation to the original. It uses different bolts for the first three before linking back to the original line to finish (6 bolts total). 'Direct' is found 2 meters to the left of the standard start, following a small left facing corner. FA S Morphy, M Larcrox '18.
When the Sensei is Away, The Boys Will Play
Starts under a slight overhang, moving over the lip, then following a broken edge to an easier top out. Often seeps for a time after heavy rains. All the climbs at this point on the wall are short, and start on broken, dark black basalt, weathered by centuries of surface water penetration. Links to “Full Work Attire” or “One Eyed Raven” as second pitches. FA S Morphy, M Lacroix '18.
Nothing Set in Stone (First Variation)
This 'climb' is actually three short lines oriented around this hump of rock using a single top rope anchor (none are lead bolted). Great for rope soloing, and worth trying as a trio if successively linked when you’ve climbed everything else on the crag. Anchor is accessible either by leading "Sensai" or by rappelling in from Upper Camas (anchors on the climbers' right side at the top for 'Cherry' or 'K Squared').
Start on the chossy overhang breakdown (often wet, and seeps for several days after rain), using a good left-hand flake, then move up on two distinctive under clings, push over the overhang (no hands rest) into a shallow left facing groove with thin feet through the top half, and jugs to pull over the top lip. FA Marko '18.
Nothing Set in Stone (Second Variation)
Starts in a gully between the wall and rocks behind you, on a broken, flaky crack line. Take the giant flake to the left, then push straight up and left on to thin crimps, using the arête out left for several thin moves before the climb levels out with more positive holds to finish. FA Marko '18.
Nothing Set in Stone (Third Variation)
This line is a bit contrived, and doesn’t follow natural movement. Start is as for Variation Two, the broken flake line, but instead of moving left onto the biggest flake (for this variation, it’s a red herring), push uncomfortably right on to thin crimps. After a few stiff moves the holds become more positive, with a lower angle finish. Fun to try, once. FA Marko '18.
K Squared Beer Patrol
Start by stepping off a rounded knob of rock. The difficult bits of this and "Cherry" are both during first two bolts. Work up a short flake system, then easier climbing through discontinuous flaring cracks and blocks, then into a series of comfortable bulges and slab – the 'whalebacks', which offer interesting aesthetics. FA S Morphy, M Lacroix '19.
Cherry on Top
Start on another flaky crack, moving over a couple of steeper bulges, then the angle eases off and the grade drops, similar to "K Squared". Cross the sloping ledge, up a curious 'down-turned horn' which is the distinctive feature of this line, then ease onto the smooth bulges and slab of the whalebacks. FA S Morphy, M Lacroix '19
Additional Notes
The Camas Wall has gone through several iterations of names over time, and represents some of the earliest overall effort and resources put into the Glen Lake Crag. The overhangs found here are sure to remain a favorite of climbers for years to come.
