Ochre Wall
This wall sits beside and above the First Aid Wall, and offers the highest 'views of the land' of all the sport climbing available on the Glen Lake Crag. However, only two sport climbing routes are available, the very old bolts of 'Wondering' (5.9), and the top rope equipped 'Aggravated Basalt' (5.10b with rap rings). Sport isn’t the main style here –this wall is all about aid climbing.
Bring your hammer and porcupine, because nail-up gear is welcome here! The proper aid lead grades should run between A1 and A3, however it is recommended that a top rope be used whenever possible. The poor-quality rock leaves little left to climb in FA style, as the worthwhile leads have already been established.
Quick Facts
Left Side Traverse
Traverse the obvious, very ragged horizontal crack across the middle of the lower wall (left side). Ends one of two ways, either leading up to anchors for "wandering", the old sport line (badly in need of re-bolting) or by fixing trad slings among the cluster of small oak trees clinging to the mid-way ledge. Due to its low height from the ground, recommended for intermediate climbers and up. Falls involve negotiating apendulum (as with all traversing lines), and although slightly overhung, the ground is close enough to make rope management a significant factor. Regular strong placement options make this line a fun ride. FA Marko Steffen, '22.
Pin Zipper
Starts left of broken block, several thin crack and hook moves off the deck, giving the grade due to ground proximity. Follow vertical cracks to the giant horizontal crack, trend left on cracks leading to more secure placements are higher up. Some route finding required in cracks above horizontal crack due to multiple options. Top out at either the old 'Wondering' anchors or go higher, to a trad anchor on the big Fir tree. FA Marko Steffen, Cory Brooks '04.
The Horn
Starts below a broken horn to the right of the block. Thin cracks trend left to the horn, sling it, then take the large flaring crack that arcs up and left. Push straight up on thin seem crack, up past the big horizontal midline crack to another thin vertical crack, then bear right on thin cracks past a second smaller horizontal crack, to easier low angle moves higher up. Anchor options are the same as for Pin Zipper, topping out on 'Wondering' anchors, or go higher to a trad anchor on the big fir tree. FA Marko, Cory '04.
Wondering
Start right of "the horn", on small platform of rock part way up main wall top access path, using side-pulls and thin edges, through fun overhung blocky moves, to the low angle top-out. Anchors and lead bolts are original – this is one sport climb in desperate need of re-bolting. FA unknown.
Aggravated Basalt
Fun overhang push on highly fractured basalt. Follow the underside of the obvious left-facing corner, mostly under-clings with good feet to the crux bulge. Pop over the bulge and stand up for the anchors. Due to the loose nature of this line, the bulge still requires more rock picking, so wear a helmet for the belay, and understand that the stats of this climb may yet change. FA Marko, Derek Woods '21.
Un-Named Aid Line
This and 'Don’t Bother' have possibly the best views from the actual climbs of any on the Glen Lake Crag – looking out over all of Langford and Victoria. Find starting bolt cliffside of the access trail (right on ascent). Also a scary and long forgotten line, follow a line of weakness below the obvious broken horn, then follow the decent right trending crack up to more face and thin, discontinuous cracks above. No anchor, just top out over the lip. Original FAs used the dead Fir trees at the very top to descend. FA Marko, Cory '04.
Don't Bother
Start at the bottom anchor bolt at ground level approximately 3 meters right of 'Aggravated Basalt' on bright orange and white flakes and cracks. Follow the fixed pins, and please don’t remove them, they are fixed gear donated by the FA. One safety bolt just below anchors to the right near top of the climb. FA Steve Janes '18.
