Umbrage Wall
A mostly leaf-shaded wall, great for avoiding light rain (the climbs can stay almost totally dry during light showers) and also for retreating from mid-day summer heat. Iron Pirate (5.10+) and Stone Temple Pirate (5.9) under the big overhang to the left are moderate overhanging lines that give an excellent sense of exposure. Exceptionally good fun! Grades range between 5.7 and 11+ on the Umbrage. Leading sport climbs through the bulge on the left half of the wall is a great way to 'feel some exposure'.
Quick Facts
More Crack Please
Start on 3 meter high ledge (accessed from right), and belay from below. Starts on positive edges and jugs to a short, decent quality crack. The only downside of this line is that it is too short. FA Seanathan Morphy, Marcus Larcrox '18.
Tritons Fork
Begin on a right corner system, then through the 'blank' face using small left side pull, follow the obvious left-trending crack up through the bulge, to the fork – now make your choice – easier traverse left along the bulge, or technical (beta-intensive) crimps up the face. FA Marko Steffen, Derek Woods '21.
Iron Pirate
A really fun overhang, this line is a do-not-miss. Face climbing to start, then after the mid-point ledge it kicks back. Follow right side of the arête/corner feature, then a couple more thin holds to lower angle finish, high and right. FA Marko, D Woods, '21.
Stone Temple Pirate
Starts with face moves on good edges and jugs up to the mid-point ledge. Then up onto the bulge. Match hands on jugs behind the crux flake, and pull the big move. There are a few ways to do it, but after the lip you’re over the bulge, and it’s all positive holds and jugs to the finish. FA Marko, D Woods, '21.
Beached Whale
A classic example of a mantle problem. Start under a small roof, through the tricky overhanging v-notch above on the left side. Stay on the face to keep the grade, or cheat up the left side of the corner, but this will cost you the whole point of the climb – the mantle. Standing rest is the reward for the mantle. Easy right facing corner system to finish. FA Marko, S Morphy '18.
Marko's Conch
Up to and through a small alcove giving a no hands rest, then follow the left trending, roughly parallel cracks at an approximately 45-degree angle. Again, stay on the face to keep the grade, using pockets and nice edges, up to the mid-way ledge and a wide standing rest. Then begin climbing again by following a wide flaring groove to top. FA Marko, D Woods, '21.
Faced With Difficulties
Both start and anchors are same as for 'Conch'. Start under the alcove, but immediately follow thin edges to the right to a short, tough, crimpy face and a very thin vertical seem. The hard face climbing ends at mid-point ledge, 7 meters up. Then climb the last 5 meters of 'Marko's Conch' to the anchors (shares same anchors). FA Marko, D Woods, '21
Two More Inches
A reachy climb for most of the bottom half, somewhat thin face moves for the first 3 bolts gain the mid-way ledge for an easy standing rest, then an easy bulge problem gains you the anchors. FA Marko, D Woods, '21
Note: This line may be downgraded soon due to the construction of a terraced starting platform below it, which allows climbers to skip the original hard starting move. Difficult start moves are typical for this part of the wall, so this 'cheat' platform will likely take all the bite out of these lines. Stay tuned!
High on Jugs
A cruxy start for the grade, the business is all between the first and second bolt. From starting jugs, traverse out to climbers left on a left gaston / sidepull to gain the second bolt. Then climb a series of relatively easy bulges and ledges up to the anchors. A fantastic warm up climb. FA Marko, S Morphy '18
Harry Handed Gent
This line offers typical easy sport climbing on enjoyable layback moves to start, easing off to blocky ledges and bulges up to the anchors. Sometimes wet due to ledge runoff but doesn’t take long to dry off. Marko, Derek Woods, '21
Broken Face
Two variations. Left variation follows right-hanging vertical rail, up to a mini roof with fun under-cling jug moves, then rejoins main line at the ledge. Right variation is the standard, and starts 2 meters right, using thin feet, up to match hands on the white-stained horn. Then move left and up the face through the crux, with easier moves above the midpoint ledge. The bottom half is often wet during spring and fall, especially the feet. Fractured rock and presence of water requires chemical anchors to make lead bolting possible. Marko, D Woods, under construction (2022)
Busted Teeth
Start on an obvious low horizontal ledge. Move left and up through prominent jagged overhanging blocks to the ledge. Finish up right side of a second bulge with a stiff, nearly featureless top-out. The first half is often wet during spring and fall. As above, the fractured rock is porous and wet, demanding special attention to bolting materials. Marko, D Woods, under construction (2022)
Additional Notes
Although its potential was identified early in the development of the Glen Lake Crag, much of it was developed later on because of the sheer amount of work to remove moss from the upper stone, and the debris from the appreciable ledges. As with much of the rock climbing in coastal British Columbia, significant foliage and moss accumulate annually.
Due to the deep shade this wall requires regular re-scrubbing. Here’s where you can help! Check out the community page for updates on volunteering days (often Fridays and Saturdays). Rock scrubbing is probably the single best way to physically give back to the climbing community.
Fun fact: Umbrage is a noun, pronounced "um-brij", and meaning "shady branches" (according to the Miriam-Webster Dictionary); from the Latin term "Umbella", which means "a sunshade or parasol", and is an ancient ancestor of the modern word "umbrella". However, to "take umbrage" with something, this is a more modern usage (past 400 years) meaning to take offence. We prefer the older meaning of umbrage, as the maple trees here shade these climbs nicely in summer.
